Calne News was invited this week to Bowood Hotel to sample the Shelburne Restaurant’s newly launched winter menu - a confident, seasonal offering that puts estate-grown produce firmly in the spotlight.
The new ‘0 Mile’ dishes are the work of Executive Head Chef Rupert Taylor and showcase ingredients harvested from Bowood’s own kitchen garden, many of them grown just a short stroll from the restaurant itself. The concept is rooted in sustainability and seasonality, but more importantly, it delivers on flavour.
Set within the Bowood Hotel, the two-AA-Rosette Shelburne Restaurant enjoys panoramic views across the estate’s parkland. During our lunchtime visit, we were treated not only to attentive service and a relaxed atmosphere, but also to the quiet pleasure of watching wildlife move across the grounds beyond the windows.
To start, we both opted for the Jerusalem artichoke soup from the 0 Mile selection, served with artichoke crisps. For those unfamiliar with the vegetable, this was an ideal introduction. The soup was packed with flavour and absolutely delicious with a velvety texture lifted by the crunch of the crisps, a dish I would happily recommend to anyone, even if they’ve never tried artichoke before. It was a simple dish, executed with confidence, and one that set the tone for what followed.
For mains, the contrast between our choices highlighted the breadth of the menu. I selected the beer-battered fish and chips, a classic done exceptionally well. The fish itself was impressively generous: a thick, chunky fillet encased in light, crisp batter that remained delicate rather than heavy. It was, in my view, one of the most substantial pieces of battered fish I’ve been served, both visually impressive and full of flavour. The chunky chips were crunchy on the outside and fluffy within, while the mushy peas - often an afterthought elsewhere - were vibrant green and full of fresh flavour, clearly made with care. Even for those usually indifferent to mushy peas, these were a pleasant surprise. The tartare sauce complemented the dish without overpowering it. It was, quite simply, faultless.
My dining companion selected the 0 Mile butternut squash risotto, another standout. She described it as "rich and creamy without being heavy", praising the balance of flavours and textures, with crunchy seeds, tasty toasted sage leaves, a delicate harissa foam and a welcome pop of balsamic pearl adding interest to the dish.
We were both full from our starters and mains but felt we really ought to at least try a dessert in order to share our thoughts, so like true heroes, we decided to share the 0 Mile mille-feuille of Bowood apples and pears, served with salted caramel ice cream. It was small in size so probably not one to share under normal circumstances. My dining companion remarked that it was "a crisp and delicate dessert and a lovely end to our perfect meal. While the dessert was undeniably delicious, the richness of the salted caramel did slightly overshadow the fruit itself for me.
Notably, every dish arrived piping hot, a small detail that makes a significant difference and was consistent throughout the meal.
Ahead of lunch, we had the opportunity to speak with Executive Head Chef Rupert Taylor about the thinking behind the 0 Mile concept. He explained that Bowood’s extensive estate and productive gardens had, historically, been underused by the restaurant, with much of the produce reserved for the main house. During the Covid period, when hospitality was forced to rethink supply and sustainability, the opportunity arose to better utilise the garden’s abundance.
Rather than promising specific vegetables year-round, the 0 Mile dishes are designed around what the garden can realistically provide in volume at any given time. This allows the kitchen to respond to gluts of produce such as artichokes or apples – preserving and pickling where needed to extend their use through the seasons. Close communication with head gardener David Glass enables the team to plan menus well in advance, ensuring nothing goes to waste.
Alongside estate produce, the kitchen continues to prioritise local suppliers, including Lovejoys in Melksham and Walter Rose in Devizes, striking a balance between sustainability, quality and practicality.
The result is a menu that feels considered rather than constrained, rooted in its surroundings without being overly self-conscious about it. Service throughout was warm and attentive adding to the overall sense of a restaurant comfortable in what it offers.
Bowood’s Shelburne Restaurant has long been a destination for special occasions, but this new winter menu, and particularly the 0 Mile dishes, gives diners another compelling reason to visit. It is seasonal cooking done properly: thoughtful, generous and, above all, delicious.
